Fashion
Fashion History

What did Victorian style?

All Victorian ladies, by whom we mean women of sufficient means to be able to follow fashion, wore roughly the same types of garments during the course of the nineteenth century. What changed was the cut, construction, materials and the overall silhouette created.

The basic underwear consisted of a chemise and drawers next to the skin (later substituted sometimes by combinations) and a corset to shape the figure. Over these was worn an under-petticoat, sometimes with a corset cover, or alternatively, an all-in-one petticoat with bodice attached. Then came a skirt support of some kind - such as a stiffened petticoat, crinoline, or bustle, to create the right silhouette for the skirt. The skirt support was covered by a decorative petticoat, which sometimes showed at the bottom of the dress. This was the minimum number of petticoats that could be worn, but at times it was fashionable to wear more. Underwear was relatively plain and utilitarian during the first half of the nineteenth century and became progressively more decorated with lace and embroidery during the second, culminating in a glorious explosion of frilly froth by the end of the era.

Over the underwear came the dress itself. Sometimes this was made as a separate matching bodice and skirt, sometimes as a single garment joined at the waist in a seam and occasionally it was a one-piece princess dress with no waist seam. Some dresses were also made in more than two pieces, with bodice, skirt and a variety of other matching draperies and overskirts. The cut and construction of the dress varied with fashion and is a subject worthy of close study.
The look of the dress itself was completed by fashionable matching accessories that were considered essential - such as collars, cuffs, under-sleeves and chemisettes (neck fill-ins). Some dresses even required a decorative shirt or blouse to be worn with them, to provide all these accessories in one. Eventually the blouse became an acceptable fashion item in its own right.
Outer wear such as jackets, capes, cloaks, shawls and mantles were worn over the dress. Some dresses were made with matching capes and jackets to be worn indoors. It was also sometimes fashionable for the dress bodice to be cut like a jacket.
On their legs (an anatomical region never referred to by a lady) were worn stockings (tights were not popularly worn until the twentieth century). These were held up initially with garters tied round the leg, then with slip-on, elastic ones. Eventually stocking suspenders were sewn to the bottom of the corset by the end of the century. Shoes and boots varied during the century. Flat slippers were fashionable in the first half of the nineteenth century, though flat-heeled, short boots or half-boots were also worn outdoors. Boots and shoes eventually developed heels during the second half of the century and boots also increased in height up the leg.
Caps were worn indoors by all married and older ladies of the early Victorian period. Decorative hair-nets also enjoyed brief popularity. Outdoors, caps were covered by bonnets, or hats were worn, usually without a cap underneath. Eventually the demure cap and bonnet disappeared by the 1890s and only the stylish hat remained.
Other important Victorian accessories include gloves, purses, parasols, fans and of course, jewellery.
The 1830s began with very exuberant, romantic and almost doll-like fashions. Dresses were usually made from lighter weight fabrics in light colours, with moderately full skirts flat-pleated to the bodice at a slightly raised waist, often with a waistband, and with full gigot or leg-of-mutton sleeves, narrow at the wrist and wide at the top, finely pleated into a low, off-the-shoulder armhole. The bodice was usually straight across at the waist and often horizontally gathered at the bust accentuating the bust and shoulder line. A wide collar or pelerine of lace or matching dress fabric further emphasised the shoulders. Lace turn-back cuffs were worn at the wrists. The ankle-length, dress skirt, often decorated up to knee level, was held out by petticoats, one of which may have been corded for extra volume.
 

Hair was worn in a knot, high on the head, with sculpted curls and loops at the side, and caps were shaped to complement this style with a high crown to accommodate the knot and frills at the side that required the side curls to hold them out. Outdoors a bonnet was worn over the cap, again with a high crown and with a deep brim that curved outwards from the face to allow the side curls to show. Despite the relatively wide skirt, the general emphasis was clearly on the top half of the body.
As the 1830s progressed, sleeves became very full at the top, (balanced in part by the widening skirt hem), but in 1836 they began to collapse. By 1837, when Victoria acceded to the throne, fashionable sleeves had collapsed and were caught down in pleats or gathers to the top arm. Wide collars continued to be worn with these modified gigot sleeves which lingered on into the early 1840's; and less fashionable women (such as Emily Brontë) even continued to wear the full gigot into the '40's. But the fashionable sleeve by 1840 had become plain and tight and the armhole was still low and tight.

Skirts widened and lengthened to the ground during the 1830s and continued to widen during the '40's, even when sleeves had become tight. It became increasingly necessary to wear a number of petticoats, at least one of which had to be stiffened with cording or with horsehair (crinoline), to hold out the domed skirt. The fashionable dress bodice of the early 40s was usually plain and tight, like the sleeve, though sometimes gathered at the waist in front. It had also dropped down to the natural waist and extended into a point in the front, the gathers, if there were any, meeting there and emphasizing the point. The plain, full skirt, was often cartridge-pleated or gauged to the waistline rather than pleated. This was necessary because of the widening skirt and because thicker, heavier fabrics were increasingly favoured.
Hair was dressed lower on the head and smoothly on the sides, sometimes with long, smooth ringlets, and this smaller coiffure required a much smaller cap and a smaller, more demure bonnet. In fact the whole fashionable look of the early 1840's was of sobre, wilting demureness. The smaller, close bonnet, though easier to keep on, did restrict the view of the wearer, adding to the look of demureness.

All content © 2000-2007
Email admin@aagneyam.com with any problems.